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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.